I have read the articles about paragliding adventures that involve hiking or driving long distances, waiting hours or days for suitable weather conditions, sleeping wrapped up in one's wing and eating freeze-dried food. This is not what I look for in a vacation. What I want is a real vacation. I want to be in a place that is fun and relaxing, regardless of the flying prospects. And I want to be in a place that provides the opportunity to fly as often as possible. Ölüdeniz is all that and more.
Ölüdeniz ("Calm Sea") is a Mediterranean seaside village on the southwestern coast of Turkey. The town of Ölüdeniz consists of a picturesque valley with small hotels nestled together and a sandy beach lined with shops, restaurants and bars. The backdrop for this sun-worshipper's paradise is Babadağ ("Father Mountain"), a 6,300' granite mountain covered with pine trees. Looking down at the sea from the summit, you can appreciate why they call this the "Turquoise Coast."
My husband and I have made nine trips to Ölüdeniz. On our first visit, we were tourists, not pilots. We enjoyed the fine beaches, excellent restaurants, quaint villages, historical and archaeological sites and unique natural wonders. From our beach side chaises, we watched hundreds of paragliders descending from Babadag and landing on the beach. Even though we had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, we signed up for tandem flights and the rest is history. On our subsequent trips to Ölüdeniz, we went as solo pilots.
With all the wonderful places in the world to fly, why do we continue to return to Ölüdeniz? Every time we've been there (during the first two weeks of September), it has been flyable almost all day, every day. You don't have to worry about the weather, because it's always warm and sunny. You don't have to worry about the wind direction, because there are launches in all directions. The tandem companies send trucks up the mountain from sunrise to sunset, so you can fly whenever you feel like it without worrying about transportation or retrieves. There's no planning, no schedules and no worries. If you can manage to get yourself out of bed in the morning, everything else just falls into place.
It is not necessary to have a car in Ölüdeniz, as all of the restaurants and bars, as well as the transports to the top of Babadağ, are within an easy walk of the hotels and the LZ. You can fly until you get hungry, have a bite to eat, take a nap or swim and fly again. If you are traveling with non-pilots there's no end to the activities available from the beach (diving, snorkeling, parasailing, white water rafting and boat, jeep and/or bus tours). The restaurants, bars and hotels are extremely accommodating and very reasonably priced. If you've never experienced Turkish food, you're in for a treat.
So, how's the flying? That depends on what you want. The launches are at 6,300' and 5,600'. Most of the launches are wide and well graded, although a bit rocky, with mild slopes. The wind is usually light, and thermals normally come up from all sides, so most of the time you can choose your launch. If you are a beginner, or purely a recreational pilot, you can launch almost anytime of the day, fly away from the mountain and descend in buoyant air that's as smooth as glass, with awesome scenery. Thermals start forming at around 10:00 and build until around 4:00. Occasionally you'll see huge dust devils converging at launch, so strong launching and ground handling skills are a big plus. More experienced pilots, who want to soar or go cross-country, may do so in mild to moderately strong conditions, by working the launch areas and upper ridges and spines. It isn't difficult to get a few thousand feet over launch, even early in the day. Sometimes, usually mid-day, clouds form around the mountaintop, so it's prudent to carry a compass. If you're interested in practicing SIV maneuvers, then this is the place. You can fly away from the mountain and over the water, with 3-4,000' to spare and practice stalls, spiral dives, wingovers or aerobatics, over the calm sea, knowing that a nearby fishing boat will rescue you if all else fails. A sled ride lasts about twenty-five minutes, but we have had soaring flights of several hours. The LZ is a mile-long, wide, sandy beach. If you land by one of the paragliding shops, a packer will fold your wing and repack your gear for a couple of dollars. Best of all, you're only a few steps away from a cold drink or good meal.
There are several other flying sites in Turkey where hang- and paraglider pilots are welcomed. Every year we consider traveling to one of the other nearby sites, but we can never seem to break away from the enjoyment and convenience of Babadağ. There are Internet sites that describe these other flying locations and there are local guides in Ölüdeniz who can help you find them (see below).
The season for paragliding, and other activities in Ölüdeniz, is May though October. The locals say that May and September offer the best weather and have fewer tourists. In June, July and August it is more crowded and it can get quite hot. Tourism in Turkey is lighter than in most of Europe, especially for Americans. Less seasoned travelers are hesitant to travel in Turkey because of earthquakes and the PPK. I can tell you, first hand, that politics, religion and natural disasters have no effect on this idyllic town. We happened to be in Ölüdeniz during the tragic events of September 11, 2001. Our flight home was delayed and we had to extend our vacation by more than a week. I felt safer in Turkey than I have on any of my travels, as well as here at home. Our friends in Ölüdeniz went out of their way to help us book alternate travel arrangements and accommodations and people we didn't even know came up to us on the street and to express their deep sympathy regarding what had just happened in the U.S. With tourism down, the prices are low and the locals are even more attentive and appreciative of visitors than ever.
If you are concerned about the possibility of requiring medical care in rural Turkey, I can provide you with a first-hand experience. Unfortunately, in 1999, my husband broke his leg and bruised some ribs on launch a few days into our trip. An ambulance and paramedic, is stationed at the mountaintop everyday. The hospital in nearby Fethiye is modern and it has a special Department of Tourism Health, who made sure that we saw English-speaking doctors. They were prompt, but thorough. A few hours after Mike was admitted, the ambulance transported us back to our hotel. When we returned to the San Francisco Bay Area, a local orthopedist confirmed that the Turkish doctors did an excellent job setting his leg.
Turkey offers a diverse and unique blend of eastern and western cultures. It is western enough to appeal to less adventurous folks on holidays, but eastern enough to feel exotic, even to more experienced travelers. The secular government of Turkey is working very hard to be accepted by the western world and the Turkish people are very tolerant and hospitable. We have had several paragliding vacations where the local pilots, and their communities, have made us feel welcome. But we have never experienced the overwhelming warmth, humor and generosity of the pilots and others who we met in Ölüdeniz. We now know almost all of the pilots, as well as most of the people who work in the shops and restaurants along the beach. Each year, when we return to Ölüdeniz, we are not just tourists or pilots, but friends and "family."
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT Ölüdeniz
The flight from Istanbul to Dalaman takes approximately an hour and it takes about an hour to drive from the airport in Dalaman to Ölüdeniz.
Tandem Paragliding and Transportation for Solo Pilots
There are several companies along the beach that provide tandem paragliding and transportation for solo pilots. Our personal favorite is Sky Sports. They are the most experienced and professional paragliding operation in town. Sky Sports pilots are members of the Turkish Paragliding Team and are licensed paraglider pilots by the USHGA and the BHPA. They each have thousands of hours of experience flying tandems at Babadağ. Occasionally, the Sky Sports team puts on an air show demonstrating their skills. They do parachute drops from tandem paragliders, loops, stalls and other advanced maneuvers for the beer drinking crowd below.
In addition to providing transportation to launch, the Sky Sports pilots and drivers can give you site intros and information about weather conditions. The drivers are happy to provide assistance at launch and they will make sure that you're off the mountain before the truck leaves the launch area.
The tandem pilots, office staff, drivers and packers are all terrific. Contact Murat Tuzer for more information. He can also help you book a room or arrange transportation to and from the airport in Dalaman.
The ride to the top of Babadag takes about thirty minutes, along a steep, but well maintained, dirt road. You pay the driver for each ride. There is also a park entry fee. There are wind indicators (and toilets) at each launch.
Equipment Repairs and Reserve Repacks
Sky Sports can also help you with equipment repairs and reserve repacks and can provide you with individual SIV training as well as information regarding cross-country flying in the area.
SIV and Cross-Country Courses
For the past two years I have watched Jockey Sanderson (Escape) conducts SIV and XC courses at Babadag. He is famous throughout the United Kingdom for these courses, which he offers every year in May and September. For a preview, check out his Security in Flight and Speed to Fly videos, which are available where most paragliding products are sold. I have spoken to several of his students and, based on their experiences and my own observations, I highly recommend his courses for intermediate and advanced pilots.
Hangliding at Babadağ
I've only seen a couple of hang gliders at Babadağ over the years, but I think this site would be great for hangliding. It's easy to transport hangliders to launch. The northern launch, which is the steepest, should work well for take-offs. The far end of the beach, which is wider and has fewer sunbathers, should make landings pretty easy. If you can figure out how to get your hanglider to Turkey, you should have no problem flying at Babadağ.
Accommodations
Stationary tents and back-packer cabins are available about $15. Rooms in the smaller hotels start at about $50. The top of the line hotels and all-inclusive resorts can go for $150+. Check out http://www.oludenizbeach.com/ for a full range of choices.
Restaurants
The Buzz Bar & Grill, located on the beach, is a moderately priced restaurant that offers a variety of starters (many of which are vegetarian), grilled fish, kabobs and other Turkish specialties. Kumsal is a traditional Turkish restaurant, further down the beach, with a diverse menu, great prices and the best pide (Turkish pizza) on the beach. OBA and The Secret Garden, located about block away from the beach, have a quiet garden-like settings. If you want more international cuisine, then check out the The Help Bar & Restaurant, a lively restaurant on the beach.
For lunch, try a Doner Kebap (yummy sandwiches with chicken and/or lamb) to go. They are perfect for a satisfying and inexpensive snack between flights or to take to the beach.
Check out the Turkish ice cream, Dondurma, at one of many portable carts. The vendor is sure to give you a fun experience.
And don't miss out on the stuffed mussels, which are sold on the street in the early evening.
Bars
Go to the rooftop Buzz Bar for happy hour. It is one of the best places in the world to watch the sun go down. Listen to good music and watch the last flights of the day landing on the beach while the sun sets over the lagoon.
Cloud 9 is a popular spot for drinks, snacks and desserts.
If you have some extra time...
Launch from Babadağ and fly south to scenic Butterfly Valley. Land near the beach and chill out until the boat comes to take you back to Ölüdeniz.
I highly recommend taking the hike from the end of the lagoon, over the mountain to the "ghost town" in Kaya, where there is the remains of an old Greek village. Enjoy a Turkish Bar-B-Q, or a Turkish pancake, at one of the many outside restaurants on the main road back to Ölüdeniz. Then treat yourself to a Turkish bath and massage!
Take a day or two to drive to Kaş. Besides being a lovely little seaside village, they have a great flying site there, as well.
Ölüdeniz ("Calm Sea") is a Mediterranean seaside village on the southwestern coast of Turkey. The town of Ölüdeniz consists of a picturesque valley with small hotels nestled together and a sandy beach lined with shops, restaurants and bars. The backdrop for this sun-worshipper's paradise is Babadağ ("Father Mountain"), a 6,300' granite mountain covered with pine trees. Looking down at the sea from the summit, you can appreciate why they call this the "Turquoise Coast."
My husband and I have made nine trips to Ölüdeniz. On our first visit, we were tourists, not pilots. We enjoyed the fine beaches, excellent restaurants, quaint villages, historical and archaeological sites and unique natural wonders. From our beach side chaises, we watched hundreds of paragliders descending from Babadag and landing on the beach. Even though we had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, we signed up for tandem flights and the rest is history. On our subsequent trips to Ölüdeniz, we went as solo pilots.
With all the wonderful places in the world to fly, why do we continue to return to Ölüdeniz? Every time we've been there (during the first two weeks of September), it has been flyable almost all day, every day. You don't have to worry about the weather, because it's always warm and sunny. You don't have to worry about the wind direction, because there are launches in all directions. The tandem companies send trucks up the mountain from sunrise to sunset, so you can fly whenever you feel like it without worrying about transportation or retrieves. There's no planning, no schedules and no worries. If you can manage to get yourself out of bed in the morning, everything else just falls into place.
It is not necessary to have a car in Ölüdeniz, as all of the restaurants and bars, as well as the transports to the top of Babadağ, are within an easy walk of the hotels and the LZ. You can fly until you get hungry, have a bite to eat, take a nap or swim and fly again. If you are traveling with non-pilots there's no end to the activities available from the beach (diving, snorkeling, parasailing, white water rafting and boat, jeep and/or bus tours). The restaurants, bars and hotels are extremely accommodating and very reasonably priced. If you've never experienced Turkish food, you're in for a treat.
So, how's the flying? That depends on what you want. The launches are at 6,300' and 5,600'. Most of the launches are wide and well graded, although a bit rocky, with mild slopes. The wind is usually light, and thermals normally come up from all sides, so most of the time you can choose your launch. If you are a beginner, or purely a recreational pilot, you can launch almost anytime of the day, fly away from the mountain and descend in buoyant air that's as smooth as glass, with awesome scenery. Thermals start forming at around 10:00 and build until around 4:00. Occasionally you'll see huge dust devils converging at launch, so strong launching and ground handling skills are a big plus. More experienced pilots, who want to soar or go cross-country, may do so in mild to moderately strong conditions, by working the launch areas and upper ridges and spines. It isn't difficult to get a few thousand feet over launch, even early in the day. Sometimes, usually mid-day, clouds form around the mountaintop, so it's prudent to carry a compass. If you're interested in practicing SIV maneuvers, then this is the place. You can fly away from the mountain and over the water, with 3-4,000' to spare and practice stalls, spiral dives, wingovers or aerobatics, over the calm sea, knowing that a nearby fishing boat will rescue you if all else fails. A sled ride lasts about twenty-five minutes, but we have had soaring flights of several hours. The LZ is a mile-long, wide, sandy beach. If you land by one of the paragliding shops, a packer will fold your wing and repack your gear for a couple of dollars. Best of all, you're only a few steps away from a cold drink or good meal.
There are several other flying sites in Turkey where hang- and paraglider pilots are welcomed. Every year we consider traveling to one of the other nearby sites, but we can never seem to break away from the enjoyment and convenience of Babadağ. There are Internet sites that describe these other flying locations and there are local guides in Ölüdeniz who can help you find them (see below).
The season for paragliding, and other activities in Ölüdeniz, is May though October. The locals say that May and September offer the best weather and have fewer tourists. In June, July and August it is more crowded and it can get quite hot. Tourism in Turkey is lighter than in most of Europe, especially for Americans. Less seasoned travelers are hesitant to travel in Turkey because of earthquakes and the PPK. I can tell you, first hand, that politics, religion and natural disasters have no effect on this idyllic town. We happened to be in Ölüdeniz during the tragic events of September 11, 2001. Our flight home was delayed and we had to extend our vacation by more than a week. I felt safer in Turkey than I have on any of my travels, as well as here at home. Our friends in Ölüdeniz went out of their way to help us book alternate travel arrangements and accommodations and people we didn't even know came up to us on the street and to express their deep sympathy regarding what had just happened in the U.S. With tourism down, the prices are low and the locals are even more attentive and appreciative of visitors than ever.
If you are concerned about the possibility of requiring medical care in rural Turkey, I can provide you with a first-hand experience. Unfortunately, in 1999, my husband broke his leg and bruised some ribs on launch a few days into our trip. An ambulance and paramedic, is stationed at the mountaintop everyday. The hospital in nearby Fethiye is modern and it has a special Department of Tourism Health, who made sure that we saw English-speaking doctors. They were prompt, but thorough. A few hours after Mike was admitted, the ambulance transported us back to our hotel. When we returned to the San Francisco Bay Area, a local orthopedist confirmed that the Turkish doctors did an excellent job setting his leg.
Turkey offers a diverse and unique blend of eastern and western cultures. It is western enough to appeal to less adventurous folks on holidays, but eastern enough to feel exotic, even to more experienced travelers. The secular government of Turkey is working very hard to be accepted by the western world and the Turkish people are very tolerant and hospitable. We have had several paragliding vacations where the local pilots, and their communities, have made us feel welcome. But we have never experienced the overwhelming warmth, humor and generosity of the pilots and others who we met in Ölüdeniz. We now know almost all of the pilots, as well as most of the people who work in the shops and restaurants along the beach. Each year, when we return to Ölüdeniz, we are not just tourists or pilots, but friends and "family."
MORE INFORMATION ABOUT Ölüdeniz
The flight from Istanbul to Dalaman takes approximately an hour and it takes about an hour to drive from the airport in Dalaman to Ölüdeniz.
Tandem Paragliding and Transportation for Solo Pilots
There are several companies along the beach that provide tandem paragliding and transportation for solo pilots. Our personal favorite is Sky Sports. They are the most experienced and professional paragliding operation in town. Sky Sports pilots are members of the Turkish Paragliding Team and are licensed paraglider pilots by the USHGA and the BHPA. They each have thousands of hours of experience flying tandems at Babadağ. Occasionally, the Sky Sports team puts on an air show demonstrating their skills. They do parachute drops from tandem paragliders, loops, stalls and other advanced maneuvers for the beer drinking crowd below.
In addition to providing transportation to launch, the Sky Sports pilots and drivers can give you site intros and information about weather conditions. The drivers are happy to provide assistance at launch and they will make sure that you're off the mountain before the truck leaves the launch area.
The tandem pilots, office staff, drivers and packers are all terrific. Contact Murat Tuzer for more information. He can also help you book a room or arrange transportation to and from the airport in Dalaman.
The ride to the top of Babadag takes about thirty minutes, along a steep, but well maintained, dirt road. You pay the driver for each ride. There is also a park entry fee. There are wind indicators (and toilets) at each launch.
Equipment Repairs and Reserve Repacks
Sky Sports can also help you with equipment repairs and reserve repacks and can provide you with individual SIV training as well as information regarding cross-country flying in the area.
SIV and Cross-Country Courses
For the past two years I have watched Jockey Sanderson (Escape) conducts SIV and XC courses at Babadag. He is famous throughout the United Kingdom for these courses, which he offers every year in May and September. For a preview, check out his Security in Flight and Speed to Fly videos, which are available where most paragliding products are sold. I have spoken to several of his students and, based on their experiences and my own observations, I highly recommend his courses for intermediate and advanced pilots.
Hangliding at Babadağ
I've only seen a couple of hang gliders at Babadağ over the years, but I think this site would be great for hangliding. It's easy to transport hangliders to launch. The northern launch, which is the steepest, should work well for take-offs. The far end of the beach, which is wider and has fewer sunbathers, should make landings pretty easy. If you can figure out how to get your hanglider to Turkey, you should have no problem flying at Babadağ.
Accommodations
Stationary tents and back-packer cabins are available about $15. Rooms in the smaller hotels start at about $50. The top of the line hotels and all-inclusive resorts can go for $150+. Check out http://www.oludenizbeach.com/ for a full range of choices.
Restaurants
The Buzz Bar & Grill, located on the beach, is a moderately priced restaurant that offers a variety of starters (many of which are vegetarian), grilled fish, kabobs and other Turkish specialties. Kumsal is a traditional Turkish restaurant, further down the beach, with a diverse menu, great prices and the best pide (Turkish pizza) on the beach. OBA and The Secret Garden, located about block away from the beach, have a quiet garden-like settings. If you want more international cuisine, then check out the The Help Bar & Restaurant, a lively restaurant on the beach.
For lunch, try a Doner Kebap (yummy sandwiches with chicken and/or lamb) to go. They are perfect for a satisfying and inexpensive snack between flights or to take to the beach.
Check out the Turkish ice cream, Dondurma, at one of many portable carts. The vendor is sure to give you a fun experience.
And don't miss out on the stuffed mussels, which are sold on the street in the early evening.
Bars
Go to the rooftop Buzz Bar for happy hour. It is one of the best places in the world to watch the sun go down. Listen to good music and watch the last flights of the day landing on the beach while the sun sets over the lagoon.
Cloud 9 is a popular spot for drinks, snacks and desserts.
If you have some extra time...
Launch from Babadağ and fly south to scenic Butterfly Valley. Land near the beach and chill out until the boat comes to take you back to Ölüdeniz.
I highly recommend taking the hike from the end of the lagoon, over the mountain to the "ghost town" in Kaya, where there is the remains of an old Greek village. Enjoy a Turkish Bar-B-Q, or a Turkish pancake, at one of the many outside restaurants on the main road back to Ölüdeniz. Then treat yourself to a Turkish bath and massage!
Take a day or two to drive to Kaş. Besides being a lovely little seaside village, they have a great flying site there, as well.
